Previously on A Vacation Story: There’s a Preface and Episode I, but ‘ce n’est pas grave’ if you do not read them prior. You can follow this episode perfectly.
This narration is dedicated to a MAnn of substance, of great immense, of timbre and calibre, a treasured friend who welcomingly explored the treasures of this city with me.
“One day… little black boys and black girls will be able to join hands with little white boys and white girls as sisters and brothers” – Martin Luther King Jr.
A Section of Nantes as seen from the Tour Bretagne (Brittany Tower)
This vacation wasn’t family/friends time. This was TOURIST time.
Nantes is likely not a city whose name is presently available in your repertoire of knowledge. Well, up till the moment you read the title of the post. Don’t feel bad about that. I didn’t know this city either until I spun the travel globe and it stopped with the pin pointing to Nantes. Voila! You may want to check a map to know the country it’s in. Just kidding. I’ll tell. It’s in western France. The heart of the ‘Pays de la Loire’ region, and former capital of the historic Brittany (Bretagne).
Arriving at the Nantes train station using the French high speed train, TGV, at 15h00 on Saturday, we were eager to discover the city right away. However, first things must come first – Selfie with the train in background. I’m sorry I won’t put the lovely picture here, we are shy to display our faces to the public. You may find it on twitter or instagram though (I’m sure some have seen it already). :D.
Saturday, 17h00 :
Our first stop was at the ‘Floralies Internationale’, an exhibition of flowers which holds in the city every four years. As you probably know, spring is generally the time for the display of flowers in all their grandeur. There were an amazing collection of flowers set in awesome themes based on cultures from the four corners of the earth. It was not just a display of flowers, it was art. Normally, I’m not a fan of flowers, but I do like art, and I felt at home. We planned to spend two hours but lost track of time, enough for us to spend three and half.
A Theme from ‘Floralies Internationale’
Saturday, 21h00 :
Hurrying out of the exhibition, we headed for a French musical concert (so we thought) at ‘St. Pierre et Paul, Cathédrale de Nantes’. Yeah, we don’t understand French but then, music is a universal language. There was a surprisingly long queue for tickets at the entrance and here we were thinking, it’s catholic and in France, it can’t be full. After staying in line for 20mins, 5 persons from getting a ticket, “c’est complet” they said. Nah! No way! ‘Dem must find space oh, even if na to lap’. Eventually, we got tucked in a corner of the cathedral, where we had to ‘giraffe’ to get a good view. And then… French talk, more talk, a little music, and then more talk, some acting, more talk, more talk, some pictures, parades, some acting, more talk, more parades, brief music. It was an historical narration of the city, supported with acting, and music for background effect. We had thought it’ll be music, supported with acting, and narration in background. Regardless of our lack of comprehension of the details of the show, I must admit that it was nice. I had never seen so much costuming in a stage act before, nor had I seen so many actors. There must have been up to 200 actors. We were awed to the extent that we didn’t take photos.
Sunday, 00h01 :
At this time, we weren’t ready to call it a night. So, we stopped by at a Venice-themed party. We should have had masks right? Well, we didn’t. Why? Erhmmmm… we were crashing and felt our faces were so ugly it’ll be taken as masks. *rolls eyes*. There was this dude, Jas, who made this beer mix – ‘Michelada’. Let me try to recall the recipe. Yes recipe. 1 litre of cold blond beer (If you use Guinness, *in Rita Dominic’s voice* ‘Oyo is your case’) + 2 tea spoons of maggi chicken sauce + 3 table spoons of freshly squeezed Lime + ½ table spoon of white pepper + garlic/ginger/onion/salt to taste. Rub some red pepper on the rim of the drinking glass before pouring in the mix. The taste – fizzy fuzzy spicy awesome. The effect – lol! Please feel free to try this at home. Just don’t refer to this blog as your source if it goes wrong (You’ve been warned).
Jas is somewhere in there
Sunday, 11h00 :
We like to experience mass in the local language of the city we are in. This time, it was French. It wasn’t at the cathedral, however, we headed for the cathedral right after. The little view we had of the cathedral the previous night had made us thirsty, we had to go back there in daylight. Describing architecture is not my strong point – some marvels are to be left to the eyes of those that have beheld them.
Cathédrale St. Pierre et St. Paul
Sunday, 14h00 – 20h00 :
Quite a lot was covered during this period. Thinking about it, I’m actually amazed. So, if you decide to visit Nantes, take note of the places you must go and the route.
We started by taking a walk along the Erdre, a major tributary of the Loire (the longest river in France), towards the great memorial wall for the ones lost in the wars, then to the statue of ‘Charles de Gaulle’. A memorabilia of CDG (general during world war II and president of France for 10 years) and Victor Hugo (author of the Hunchback of Notre Dame) is something a lot of French cities have, often in form of a statue and street, respectively. Afterwards, we visited the ‘Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne’, the last castle to the left along the Loire, about 300m away. Here, we experienced the history of the city and coupled with the narration of the previous day, we can say we know how the city came to be in her present form. On the way to our next stop which was a promenade of Memorial to the Abolition of Slave Trade, we passed by some jolly kids having a tractor ride, window shopped at La Fayette, and walked through ‘place du Bouffay’, historical as a square for public executions. You know, the chopping of the head thing with a guillotine. The ground was soaked red in blood. Just kidding. Of course not, that was way back, before the 19th century. At Mediateque square, just before the place of the memorial, there was a Brittany festival (Fête de Bretagne) ongoing, where we experienced first-hand, the intriguing Celtic dance. The walk through the memorial promenade was one of meditation and contemplation on the lives our ancestors lived, of the bravery of Olaudah Equiano, the determinedness of Abraham Lincoln, and the dream had by Martin Luther King Jr. Nantes was a major harbour city for slave ships. The memorial led us to an Island, specifically to the famous machines of the Island. Welcoming us with proud strides and sprouting water was the giant mechanical elephant. It led us to the grand carousel of the island and then to the rings of Daniel Buren, lined by the edge of the Loire.
When we left the Island, we sought the ‘passage pommeraye’, not for any spectacular reason, but just to mark the register that we have walked through the monumental passage.
L’Éléphant
Sunday, 20h00 – ‘When hunger don nearly fire us finish’ :
Finally, it was time to end the evening with dinner. And what better place to have dinner in Nantes than the exalted historic restaurant, La Cigale, located next to the city theatre, Theatre Graslin. We were offered an untranslatable menu, which I tried, albeit without success, with my little French, to translate to my friend. At least I could identify Rice, Fish, Meat, Potato, Fries. But when you tell me my meal is ‘fruits de mer’. You must be confused. Fruits don’t grow in the sea. That’s one of the easier ones to decipher though. Even the waitress, who spoke both English and French well, couldn’t do any better. I wonder how they come up with these names for meals. The meal was a bit expensive, but worth nearly every penny.
That was supposed to be the perfect ending, but like the tourist that we were, having the insatiable touristic hunger, we just had to stretch it further. Walking through the ‘place Royale’, the square of the city fountain, we went to the Tour Bretagne (Brittany Tower), the tallest building in Brittany. From the top of this tower, we saw the entire city and beyond, trying to identify the places we’d been to during the course of the day.
With up to 20km and 10,000s of calories burnt that day, we slept nearly immediately we got on the bus back to our hotel. ‘I no blame us. Na driver gast wake us wen we reach final stop’.
Monday :
On the final day of the vacation in Nantes, we took things slow, starting out at 13h00. First, we toured one of the best Universities in France (one of the best is a wide range though), École Nationale Supérieure des Mines de Nantes. Thereafter, we went to the musée d’impremerie. The only museum visited throughout this tour of Nantes. At this place, we learnt about the history of modern printing and explored the works of Johannes Gutenberg, often referred to as the father of modern printing. ‘If you know the kain work wey dem dey do just to print one page dat time. Nna Mehn!’
I hear French pancakes are the best. So we searched around looking for pancakes. Not that they are hard to find, but unfortunately, we were out at the wrong time. All crêperie (a place where pancakes are made and sold) were closed for the afternoon. Maybe this was all about the world acclaimed French ‘quality of life’ or just closure for sanitation. What to do? Hang around for two hours till they open? Nah. We’ll pass. Alas! We got home and couldn’t get our minds of the pancakes. ‘Omo! We carry our legs waka back go find those pancakes for night’. It sure was worth it.
We journeyed out of Nantes the following morning; not to end the vacation, but to continue in another city. 😉
And to wrap it up, guess what? I don’t know the gender of the two people referenced in this narration. Do you? Did you mentally ascribe a gender to them? I’d like to know.
Next on A Vacation Story: From Grenoble with Love